Protecting Chaco Canyon Matters to Everyone

New Orleans  Chaco Canyon is a national park, but the odds are you have never been there, and that you never will go there. It’s more than 30 miles off of a two-lane highway on a graded, dirt road in northwestern New Mexico. That’s on purpose. This isn’t Yellowstone. It’s not supposed to be easy.

It’s more than 3 hours from Albuquerque in one direction, if you happen to be there. It’s more than 3 hours drive from Santa Fe, if you happen to be there. You have to want to go there, and in the case of Chaco Canyon, that’s actually a good thing. It’s a fragile, historical, heritage site, and to many – including me — it’s sacred ground.

It’s dry, desolate ground ensconced in the Navajo Reservation. Almost a millennium ago, it was home to native peoples referred to as the Anasazi or old ones, the ancient people who first inhabited the area. The aridity of the area has remarkably preserved a number of religious kivas and dwelling structures in small villages that were bustling cities of sorts. I often describe Chaco Canyon as the home of the largest city in America in their time. Archaeologists continue to study the Chaco culture, its community, trade routes, and society seriously. Theories abound from the mundane to the extreme about the people. Several years ago there was an extensive argument about whether cannibalism was practiced. There is a continued mystery about what happened in Chaco Canyon. It thrived and then disappeared. Most believe there was an environmental collapse given the inability of the desert like climate to grow sufficiently to feed the thousands living there.

Now there is a different environmental threat. The actual park is protected from resource extraction. Until recently the areas around park were also held off limits by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Now there is a proposal slowly gaining ground to lease tracts outside of the park to oil and gas companies. Environmental groups like the San Juan Citizens Alliance are fighting this effort as is a larger coalition Frack Off Greater Chaco that includes large local and national organizations as well as native people. These groups have filed suit to block the leases.

Visiting the canyon is a spiritual experience. The quiet and desolation is so powerful that when you step out of your tent in the night you believe you can almost feel the people who have been there before you. The experience was so moving that we named our children after the spirit of the area and its people, first our son, Chaco, and then our daughter, Dine’, the Navajo word for “the people.”

There is an oil glut today with the price per barrel hardly over $50 endangering the business model and profits of many companies and countries around the world. The US is now an exporter of oil. Why endanger the Chaco Canyon area now for a few campaign contributions to a handful of politicians, when there is no substitute for the special, uniqueness of Chaco Canyon anywhere in the country and perhaps the world? Whether you ever go there or not, it’s important for you today and for generations to come to know tomorrow that such a place exists and is protected in perpetuity for what it was, but as importantly for what it is, and its ability to still transform the very spirit and souls of its visitors.


Lesson from New Orleans Flooding: Money Matters

August 5th, 2017

New Orleans    Rolling from the dry of central Wyoming to the humid of New Orleans always takes a little climatic adjustment, but it’s not a bad thing. The weather forecast says rain and thunderstorms are expected daily throughout the week. The same prediction has been largely fulfilled over the last week. In New Orleans, this rainy season in the near tropics is called, “summer.”

Thoughtful people and friends ask, “how’s the flooding,” given the constant Weather Channel and news reports of the 9 or 10 inches of rain that fell within hours a week ago inundating parts of the city, especially the center of the bowl that defines New Orleans geography around the Mid-City section, close to where our main Fair Grinds Coffeehouse is located off Esplanade. Really, the local response is more shrug than a sigh, because from all local reports, it wasn’t that bad, though it is hugely worrisome for other reasons as we fear the storm next time. An estimated two hundred houses flooded. That’s terrible and tragic for the families involved, but, frankly, it’s a long way from “call out the lifeboats.”

Heads have rolled, but understand this clearly, they have rolled because of something rare in government anywhere today. These Sewerage & Water Board and Public Works officials were forced to resign or fired not because of the flooding or the inability of the drainage system to handle the deluge, but because they were not transparent: they didn’t tell the truth. They claimed the system was working at full capacity, and it was not. It was working at about 56% capacity. Of some 200 odd pumps about 15% were inactive, which isn’t good, but neither would have normally been catastrophic, but, welcome to climate change, this was an unusual rain event. The drainage system is New Orleans, when it’s working a full tilt, is amazing and, frankly, world class. It can handle almost 3 inches of rain an hour. Storms that would shut down other cities, are routine in New Orleans, and the system has been designed historically to deal with a lot of water.

Perhaps the usual strength of the operation has lured too many New Orleanians into a false security from city hall to stoop steps though, and that has been the current awakening. The horror is that the deluge revealed that three of the five turbines that run the drainage system were offline, two since an early downpour this summer and one for almost four years. For that to be allowed to happen without preparations during hurricane season is unconscionable, and has to be addressed.

A high ranking board member resigned in protest, blaming the city officials for not having produced cash to improve the system and claiming S&WB was being unfairly singled out. Once again, they fell – or were pushed – on their swords, as they should have been, because they were not forthright with the citizens, not because of a big rain and some flooding. Brickbats are being thrown at a couple of million that has been stuck in planning and unspent to clear out storm drains, and that’s a valid beef, but most of that was for drains in common spaces. There’s a drain across the street on my block. I’m not confused though. It’s my responsibility to get shovel in hand every couple of months and clean it out. Why would I take a chance?

Some of the system, including the corkscrew apparatus, that sucks the water out of the drains is more than 100 years old. There are estimates that it could take $1 billion dollars to totally upgrade and modernize the drainage system, which is a pretty steep price tag for a lower income city. This is part of the national crisis that Trump and others like to talk about, but few are willing to pay for.

We are close to the 12th anniversary of Hurricane Katrina in New Orleans. Daily we read about the dangers of climate change on challenging environments like those of our precious wetlands and coastal areas in Louisiana.

We really don’t need too many more wake-up calls. We need everyone up and down the line to start putting their money where their mouths are.